By Ute Neumaier (Buenos Aires), published in the German magazine Tangodanza 40, October 2009

There is just a small red canopy to show the way to this world apart, where some of the most well known of the central-city milongueros cross paths. At the door we’re greeted by Carolina, the friendly security guard. She must keep count of the numbers who enter, which was restricted by the government following the deaths of 190 youngsters at a local rock concert, at the end of 2004.

Six nights a week El Beso offers six distinct milongas. Although the names of the milongas and of the DJs change, some things always remain the same at Riobamba 416: the rules of a traditional milonga and its unique ambience. Which is why El Beso is known and loved so much by foreigners and locals alike.

A red staircase leads us upstairs, to El Beso del Domingo (El Beso on Sunday). Already the beat of a tango can be heard. The 15-peso entry is paid, and the night can begin. Beyond the large bar opens a mysterious space. Before those dancing are recognizable, their shadows can be seen on the dancefloor under skilfully low-set lighting.

The organizer, Susana Molina, is quick to greet tangueros with her friendly manner, and to accompany them to their table. Once the eyes have accustomed to the semi-darkness, you can try your luck finding a dance partner. Because at El Beso, the cabeceo is fundamental.

The first time you attend El Beso, you feel almost intimidated; there is a sense that every move you make reveals you as new to the place, and it seems as though everyone here has known each other for centuries, despite the fact they hardly speak at all. Few words are said between tangos – any lengthy conversation would be left hanging anyway, interrupted by the music. Those who attend El Beso do so to dance, not to talk. There is an ambience of high concentration. They dance well here, in a small space, with a minimalist style, and very close. Carlos Gavito, legendary milonguero and a regular here – now passed away – was convinced that the higher the level of dancing in a milonga, the less is spoken.

Before long, you can tell who is important at El Beso del Domingo and who is not. To the right of the floor is the table of the milongueros, which is something of an institution in the milonga. These men, most of advanced age, are the crème de la crème of the traditional milonga, the masculine prima donas of tango. They set the tone, dance little and well, and observe everything that happens on the dance floor and around them. Those who break the sacred rules are chastised with a stony glare, unforgiving. These milongueros and silent caretakers of the traditions of the milonga are unique personalities of the porteño night. It’s hard to imagine this milonga without the presence of Flaco Dany, El Nene, Tete, Tito Rocca, Tito Franquelo or El Pibe Sarandí.

The ladies are seated slightly squashed together to the right and left of the dance floor. Sometimes they talk among themselves, distractedly, but in general their gaze is focused toward the men in the shadows, who are seated on the edges of the dance floor and look, apparently without much interest, toward the women. The newcomer will invariably find it extraordinary that dance partners find each other, almost in an instant, amidst these shadows and despite the distance. But it is possible; El Beso proves it time and again. Some can’t get by without their glasses in this light, however before dancing they will leave them carefully on the table and, upon returning, put them on again: Let the game begin!

The dancers move around a floor that is, in general, always full. It seems they are connected by a secret code. The numerous couples merge seemingly into one solid mass that is moved by just one force: the music – itself something sublime; it is the most important element of the traditional milonga: 130 people united through music.

The DJ is situated in the most elevated spot, in a sort of cubicle, and from there he or she observes everything happening on the dance floor. The music played by the DJs of the various milongas at El Beso is sometimes spirited and other times placid, but it is always traditional tangos. In El Beso you hear tango nuevo, when you hear it, only between tandas, as a cortina.

In addition to tango, at El Beso del Domingo they also play a tanda of rock ‘n’ roll – and it’s much enjoyed! This is a moment when the milongueros, again, reveal their true mastery, and dance with a nonchalant fluidity to the music of their youth. The foreigner will usually be surprised by the variation of rock ‘n’ roll danced in Argentina: here they don’t jump about like in other countries, rather the woman glides around the man, moving her hips sensually from side to side. What a show!

For those who, late in the night, wish to eat something, there is the double pleasure of watching the dancefloor while partaking of a snack from the excellent bar kitchen.

It’s recommended to book for the milonga, because El Beso del Domingo is always well attended. For a true tango addict, not even the global economic crisis or the swine flu could keep them away from their favourite milonga. But Susana still recalls how it was in the early days of El Beso del Domingo. At the beginning, Carlos Gavito advised her to seat as many as possible pretty women in the front rows, whether they could dance or not. This way, according to Gavito, the men would not take long to turn up too. And that’s the way it went at El Beso del Domingo.